The Route
The Haute Route is arguably the most famous ski mountaineering tour in the world, passing some of the highest and most dramatic peaks of the Alps from Mont Blanc in the west to the Matterhorn in the east. Established by members of the Alpine Club in the 1850's, the route was first traversed on skis in 1911. Skiers stay in high mountain huts, mostly above 3,000 metres. Each day starts early , sometimes before dawn, in order to cover the substantial distances in the best snow conditions and to mitigate avalanche risk. The route crosses numerous cols, takes in the odd peak and follows some of the major glaciers in the Alps. With up to 6 hours climbing per day carrying heavy packs at altitude, it is an arduous and serious undertaking.
The equipment needed includes ice axe, crampons, skins (for walking uphill on skis), harness (in case of falling into a crevasse), and shovel, probe and transceiver (for avalanche rescue).
Our plan, day by day
Day 1 Sunday 13 April
Telepherique from Argentière to Grand Montet. Ski downhill and short walk uphill to Argentière Hut (2,771metres). 1½ to 2 hours (short day for acclimatisation).
Day 2 Monday 14th
Over the Col du Chardonnet 2 ½ hours; Fenetre de Saleina 1½ h; total day of 6 to 7 hours with 961 metres of ascent. A strenuous day involving steep climbing, several changes from skiing to skinning and, possibly, some abseiling. Night in Trient Hut (3,170 metres).
Day 3 Tuesday 15th
Col des Escandies, Val d'Arpette, Champex. A magnificent descent if the conditions are good. Transfer to Verbier by road and lift. Ascend to the Mont Fort Hut to stop overnight.
Day 4 Wednesday 16th
Over Col de Chaux and Rosablanche 3,336 m and up to the Dix Hut. 8 to 10 hours with 1,225 metres of ascent. This section traverses known avalanche territory.
Day 5 Thursday 17th
Over the Pigne d'Arolla 3,796 m to Vignettes Hut; 5 to 6 hours climbing, 868 metres of ascent. A magnificent ski mountaineering day and one of the best stages on the route.
Day 6 Friday 18th
From the Vignettes Hut, over Col Mont Brulè and Col Valpelline, then a long descent under the north face of the Matterhorn to Zermatt. A very long day of 8 to 10 hours regarded as the highlight of the tour, 24km long crossing four cols and seven glaciers. Arrive in Zermatt exhausted but hopefully elated. The party begins.......